Then, the awning automatic retraction will keep the awning safe without you having to keep an eye on the wind conditions. The other reason to have a wind sensor is so you can leave your awning extended, even if you’re away from your RV. This saves you from expensive repair bills. If the wind picks up suddenly, the sensor can react faster than a person and retract the awning away from harm. There are a couple of reasons you may want a wind sensor on your RV awning.įirst and foremost, a wind sensor can protect your awning from unexpected gusts of wind. Some models allow you to adjust their sensitivity as well, so the awning only retracts in especially strong winds. This RV awning auto retract prevents strong winds from tearing fabric or damaging the arms of the awning. The awning wind sensor detects movement from the wind and automatically retracts the awning if the wind gets too strong. This style of awning is more common on newer vehicles, especially higher-end ones. However, depending on the brand of your manual awning, it may be possible to convert it into an electric awning.Įlectric awnings use a motor to extend and retract at the push of a button. If you have a manual awning, it simply won’t be possible to install an awning wind sensor. The first thing to make clear is that an RV awning wind sensor will only work on an electric awning. That way, you don’t have to worry about your awning, even if you’re away from your RV. With an RV awning wind sensor, your awning will automatically retract itself if the wind picks up. Thankfully, if you have an electric awning, there is a solution: installing an RV awning wind sensor! But if a strong wind picks up, it can catch your RV awning and ruin it. Be sure to adhere to Weather Pro's wire gauge recommendations and add fuses at positive power before switches.One of the best parts of RV life is sitting out under your awning and enjoying the outdoors. Total expense for this project $ 40.00+. If you have no need for the wind sensor or hand remote, or remote switch in storage, wire awnings direct for longer motor life and trouble free operation. Both motors now work with gusto from inside the coach and i am getting 13+- volts to the motors. Rewired the new switches (12 AWG) direct to awning motor and door awning motor and reinstalled in original position to the left of passenger seat. I then removed and replaced the Winny switches which do not have sufficient amp rating to handle the job. I bypassed the Winny wiring harness and ran new 10 AWG lines to breaker in front electrical cabinet. The switch i am using is peak rating at 30 amp, twice the fused value of the awning requirements. ($260-300) I decided instead to eliminate the control box altogether and use two DPDT momentary reverse polarity switches, (Amazon, DC Momentary Reversing Rocker Switch double pole double throw) ( one for the patio awning, the other for the door awning. I decided to replace the A&E control with one designed for the 9100E, but changed my mind when i determined how much they cost. (Bad Idea!!!)įrom the start the awning did not work properly. The brand new unit was hooked to the original A&E control box. The OEM awning was replaced with Dometic's Weather Pro 9100E. At one point I replaced the original A&E Power awning because the motor was diagnosed as being defective and a replacement was not available because of Dometic's take over of A&E. My 02 Winnebago Journey has for some time been troublesome in regard to the awnings tendency to stop during extention and/or retraction.
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